Places I Remember with Lea Lane

Mexico City: Historic, Artistic, Dynamic

• The head concierge at Andaz Mexico City Condesa Hotel gives insider tips to make the most of this magical destination. • Season 1 • Episode 118

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Mexico City pulses with energy that spans nearly seven centuries, from its 1325 Aztec founding to its contemporary status as a sophisticated global metropolis. The sprawling capital reveals itself as a layered cultural treasure through the expert insights of Arturo Sanchez, Head Concierge at Andaz Mexico City Condesa Hotel, who shares his perspective on this magnificent city.

At the ancient heart of Mexico City, the Zócalo plaza anchors the historic center where visitors can explore the 13th-century Templo Mayor ruins alongside colonial masterpieces like the Metropolitan Cathedral. Diego Rivera's stunning murals depicting Mexican history adorn the National Palace walls, while nearby, the Palacio de Bellas Artes dazzles with its Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, housing a Tiffany glass curtain. A few blocks away, hidden murals in the Public Education Secretary buildings showcase Mexico's muralist tradition.

Beyond downtown, the cobbled streets of Coyoacán neighborhood transport visitors to another era, where Frida Kahlo's iconic Blue House museum captivates with intimate glimpses into the artist's life. The National Museum of Anthropology stands as an essential starting point for understanding Mexico's complex history through its comprehensive collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts displayed in a stunning modern building.

The city's vibrant festival calendar reaches its colorful peak during Day of the Dead celebrations (November 1-2), when locals honor deceased loved ones through offerings, marigolds, and communal gatherings. Mexico City's world-class culinary scene ranges from street tacos to Michelin-starred restaurants, while nearby excursions offer archaeological wonders like the Teotihuacan pyramids where sunrise hot air balloon rides create unforgettable experiences.

Mexican wrestling (Lucha Libre) is an acrobatic theatrical performance where audiences choose sides in a communal celebration. As Arturo shares from personal experience, these authentic cultural moments create meaningful connections, revealing why Mexico City remains one of the world's most captivating destinations.

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Arturo Sanchez lives in Mexico City and is head concierge at Andaz Mexico City Condesa Hotel there.

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Podcast host Lea Lane has traveled to over 100 countries, and  has written nine books, including the award-winning Places I Remember  (Kirkus Reviews star rating, and  'one of the top 100 Indie books of  the year'). She has contributed to many guidebooks and has written thousands of travel articles.
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Our award-winning travel podcast, Places I Remember with Lea Lane, has dropped over 115 travel episodes! New episodes drop on the first Tuesday of the month, on Apple, Spotify, and wherever you listen.
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Lea Lane:

Mexico City was founded in 1325 by the Aztecs as an island city in Lake Texcoco. It became capital of the new Aztec Empire and it was almost completely destroyed in 1521 and redesigned by the Spanish conquistadors. Today, Mexico City is densely populated, a high-altitude capital of Mexico, sprawling, complex, always changing, and its sophisticated hotels, grand public parks and boulevards and chic shopping streets rival those of Europe. There's lots to experience. Our guest, Arturo Sanchez, is head concierge for Andaz Mexico City Condesa Hotel. He was born and raised in Mexico City. He now works in the heart of it all and will be sharing the most magical aspects of Mexico City. Welcome, Arturo, to Places I Remember.

Arturo Sanchez:

Hi, how are you?

Lea Lane:

I'm great and I can't wait to talk about your great city. Now. s a hotel concierge, I know you help your guests experience the city. I believe you call your tours anti-tours. What does that mean?

Arturo Sanchez:

That's correct. Actually, right here in the hotel, we take care of all of our guests. We provide as many recommendations and we make, of course, reservations.

Lea Lane:

Yeah, I think it's very important for travelers to use the services of a concierge if they're available, because you do make great decisions and people want to go out to eat or see something. You'll very often give them the best tips. Concierges are good at it and at a great hotel like yours it's especially useful. There's no way a traveler can see, taste and do all you want to do in one visit to Mexico City. But let's go over some of the not-to-misses. What will you experience at the Plaza de la Constitución, a massive square known as the Zócalo?

Arturo Sanchez:

Of course, at the Zócalo, as you say, the main plaza. It's the heart of the city. Right here, in the main museums, we find as many really beautiful places like the Cathedral. The National Palace is the place where you will find the biggest murals from Diego Rivera, for example, Templo Mayor. The streets to walk around are totally beautiful. Fine arts palace.

Lea Lane:

I like the Templo Mayor. It's a 13th century Aztec temple right there in the center. It's very exciting to see something that old. There's all kinds of stones and stuff to go look at and it's very interesting. I think the Diego Rivera murals in the Palacio Nacional are exceptional. He painted the history of Mexico, right? Is that what he was doing all around?

Arturo Sanchez:

That's correct. All the murals that we have right there. Diego Rivera is one of the most popular muralists, like Rufino Tamayo, like Alfaro Siqueiros. Also. Just a couple blocks away is the Mural Museum of Diego Rivera.

Lea Lane:

Mexico has some of the greatest muralists ever. Why do you think that's so?

Arturo Sanchez:

It's a little part of the history of Mexico in different areas of the city. I recommend right there in downtown the Public Education Secretary offices and it's one of the places with most murals in all the city that are really beautiful and that's just a couple of blocks away from the cathedral.

Lea Lane:

Someone took me there. I remember now and it was exceptional just a public building with all these great murals. Right, Excellent, tip Chapultepec Castle I love. It's in a beautiful park and I remember going to an evening presentation of Mexican music and folk dance with the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico, which is a great company. So there's a lot going on culturally as well as just looking at the architecture. I think the architecture is used as a backdrop very often for some great cultural events, and I want to mention the Palacio de Bellas Artes, the great cultural center. It also has murals. It's Art Nouveau, Art Deco. It has a Tiffany glass curtain and I just walked into the lobby and it's so spectacular. It's just one of those beautiful things. You just have to step in. Where is that located?

Arturo Sanchez:

Actually, that is approximately five, six blocks away from the Zo, from the main plaza. That's a walking distance, of course, 10 minutes walking. We have every week the Folkloric Ballet by Amalia Hernandez the show. It's awesome. It's one of the main options but I love to recommend to our guests. It's right there in the heart of the city.

Lea Lane:

And it represents Mexico so many layers and so much culture. It's a fun city, but it's also a tremendously historic city, and it represents Mexico so many layers and so much culture. so it's great for everybody really to come there. The one building I do want to point out that's not so old but it is exceptional the National Museum of Anthropology. Tell us a little about that.

Arturo Sanchez:

Kind of place where, if you want to go fast, you spend one, two hours, or if you want to spend a full day, you can do it. Different areas. The Mayan exhibition is one of my favorites. The Aztec exhibition that is a really awesome, so they had two different floors. it's really nice and that is just across the street of the Chapultepec castle. Normally we should just go to the Anthropologie Museum. You will find many more options. The Modern Art Museum.

Lea Lane:

The Museum of Anthropology is a gorgeous modern building, so it's especially interesting when you see the two. The Anthropology Museum is a great start. It's a wonderful overview of Mexican history, which is a little bit complex. It goes way back. I would highly recommend it. I do recommend the suburb, the historic center where Cortes, the Spanish conqueror, once lived, Coyoacan.

Arturo Sanchez:

Yes.

Lea Lane:

It's a great neighborhood. It has cobbled streets and plazas. It showcases about five centuries of Mexican culture. And here's where you will find artist Frida Kahlo's blue house, Casa Azul. It's a museum dedicated to the life and work of the great artist. She lived there with Diego Rivera. I can't get over how beautiful that house is, the gardens and within her life, but also her paintings. Great color. Even if you don't know much about Frida Kahlo, you learn it there and you can appreciate the gorgeous coloring and the gorgeous artifacts, even her sunglasses, little things that make her come to life.

Arturo Sanchez:

Talking about Coyoacán, that is, to the south of the city Many coffee places, art galleries, the Blue House, of course. Next to Coyoacán you will find the neighborhood where you will find the house studio of Frida and Diego. That is different to the Blue House. They're really interesting to visit both Two museums where you're going to spend 45 minutes an hour. The house studio a couple of blocks away from the Blue House.

Lea Lane:

Very good restaurant, next to the studio,

Arturo Sanchez:

That's right San Angel Inn. Yes. You can take the breakfast or the lunch in the garden across the street of the House Studio, so that is really nice.

Lea Lane:

It's just a wonderful day to learn a little bit. Before you go, I'd say, read up on Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. You'll just have a marvelous day and eat lunch at that gorgeous restaurant and you'll be happy. Now Mexico is known for its festivals. Some have to do with indigenous traditions or Christian customs or independence. What are some of your favorites that you'll come across in Mexico City?

Lea Lane:

My favorite, of course, is the Day of the Dead. Colorful, we have the parades and the decorations and the most important about this day, it's in honor of our people who i not anymore with us. This is the commemoration for these people. It's part of our culture. Just right here in Mexico City, in all Mexico, you will find the celebration, the parades, the Day of the Dead.

Lea Lane:

I celebrated. It was so moving and fun and has great food and color. The moving part was how you remember your family, how you build little shrines with candles and their favorite things, marigolds. Then you stop and think about the past and Day of the Dead is one of my favorite festivals of any country and I know Mexico is one of several countries that celebrate, but it probably does it in the biggest way. I highly recommend it.

Arturo Sanchez:

The Dead Day. It's November 1st and 2nd. We really appreciate it because the people from different countries come to see it and they are part of the same celebration. So we really love that. We see the people from different countries with the face paint, the dress. We really love that because it's the way that we can share a little part of our culture. We love to share with all the people, with all the world.

Lea Lane:

Yeah, the face painting is so much fun. You see shopkeepers in face paint and children and older people and you put it on and just you become a part of the culture. You have a lot of music festivals. Is mariachi popular in Mexico City? I know it is throughout much of Mexico.

Arturo Sanchez:

We have the music for all the people, for all the families. That depends what you love. The mariachi band is one of the most popular. Actually, right here in the city we have a main plaza that's called Garibaldi, where you will find all the mariachis together and some restaurants around. And right here in the city, because it's part of the culture, you can just make the appointment with the mariachis to come to your house to play some songs. And talking about the festival, we have many different options. The Corona Capital that is at the final of the year. It's alternative music and rock bands Really good and they're really popular right now. Also, we have another festival for the Latin people. Jazz festivals too, for all the people who love it. Classic music festivals too.

Lea Lane:

That's wonderful. I mean you think of art when you think of Mexico City, but music as well. You also celebrate Independence Day September 15th. It marks your independence from Spain in 1821. And on May 5th you celebrate the Battle of Puebla, where Mexican soldiers defeated the French in 1862. It goes back to your history. There's so much. So before you plan a trip, I would say, look at the calendar of festivals and see which ones you might like. It adds to the experience. Now we mentioned food a little bit and cafes and something. The food of Mexico is spectacular. It's one of the best cities in the world. Truly, it's gotten to be exciting. It's very diverse. You have street food, fine dining, you have pre-Hispanic dishes. What are some typical street foods that you would say we shouldn't miss?

Arturo Sanchez:

Right here in Andaz, Mexico City, Condesa, the neighborhood, you will find as many options, just walking around Go to downtown, to go to Polanco neighborhood, where is the Anthropology Museum we are in the middle and, of course, just walking distance you will find as many really good options like markets, like restaurants. We have a many tours, for example, taco tour, just to give you some idea when the people ask for some recommendation. Three questions: First of all, which location People require, walking distance, where we have as many options or some specific location. Second one, the ambience we have right here and specifically next to the hotel, the party ambience, the fine dining, places. And the third question is what kind of food? Of course, as many people come right here to try the Mexican food, traditional tacos, pozole, quesadillas, really good restaurants.

Lea Lane:

I love tacos al pastor. That's marinated pork, pineapple onions and cilantro in a corn tortilla. That's my favorite taco. You get tamales and you get quesadillas. As you mentioned, pozole, chile gorditas Yeah , I love it. There are also pre-Hispanic dishes. I remember eating lobster in red chili sauce. I remember cactus, fruit tortillas and tamales and crab sauce. These are older recipes that are still being made and, of course, there are now Michelin-starred restaurants for fine dining many starred restaurants in your neighborhood and it makes for a great trip when you know you have great eating. Now, if you want to go outside Mexico City, there are archaeological sites, there's outdoor activities. What would you recommend? What's the most popular? I'm going to guess it's Xochimilco.

Arturo Sanchez:

Xochimilco. It's part of Mexico City, that is at the south, but well, it's a long distance. It's a place with the canals, with the flowering gardens, to go with family, to go with friends, to go just with boyfriend, girlfriend. There around the hotel we find as many really good options too, like Puebla, like Tepoztlan.

Lea Lane:

Puebla, I know, is a beautiful, charming city. It's colonial.

Arturo Sanchez:

That's correct. Puebla is just approximately two hours away from here. Parts of Puebla are totally different. One of my favorites that's called Cholula. It's a place where they have 365 different churches in the area Beautiful.

Lea Lane:

It also has the Great Pyramid of .

Arturo Sanchez:

Mexico, that's correct.

Lea Lane:

So you have the Pyramids of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon in nearby.

Arturo Sanchez:

Chihuahua.

Lea Lane:

Yes, thank you. That's hard to say, but it's worth going to see pyramids. I don't know how many of our listeners realize that there are pyramids right outside of Mexico City, so you get that as well, which is kind of exciting.

Arturo Sanchez:

It's correct. That is in the north of the city. That is approximately an hour 15 minutes from here. Pull the pyramid of the sun, of the moon. You will find the different options, just to go by yourself. If you prefer, go with a tour guide. One of the most popular is the flight with the hot air balloon.

Arturo Sanchez:

That is really good (Over the pyramids), over the pyramids Really early, see the sun rising at six, seven in the morning right there. You will fly right there and then you have some time to walk in the area, take some pictures. They have a really good restaurant right there and that is one of the most popular places to visit for all the guests.

Lea Lane:

Sounds perfect. I didn't realize you could take a balloon up there. That sounds like a bucket list item. Also, outdoor activities. You have the Valle de Bravo. Yes, there's a mountain there, fourth tallest mountain in the area. It overlooks two high altitude lakes. You have a volcano, Popo Volcano, the second highest volcano in the country. You can see it smoking. How far is that from downtown?

Arturo Sanchez:

That is not really far. We're talking about one hour, two hours, a maximum three hours. It's a place to go on the weekend just to relax. The places like Puebla that you say, wine, cheese, for example, and that is near.

Lea Lane:

Oh my, tell me about Mexican wine.

Arturo Sanchez:

It's really good. Mexico, you say. We have different locations where they have a really good wine and, for the same reason, Guerétaro is one of the states next to Mexico City. They have the tours of the route right there. You can go and visit where they produce the wine, plus the cheese, of course, some activities that the people can do the same day. That is not far.

Lea Lane:

One thing I did from San Miguel de Allende and I know you can also do it from Mexico City is to visit the area of the butterflies in the central plateau. That's a little bit longer drive, but for people who would want to see that great migration of the monarch butterflies, how far is it?

Arturo Sanchez:

From Mexico City and are there tours that you can get on and spend the day and come back? We normally suggest to do it with a driver. The driver is going to pick you up right here, going right there with you. The butterfly that is in Morelia, Michoacan, is a different state, talking approximate about three, four hours, just to give us some idea, but that is a really good experience. That is for the family.

Lea Lane:

What time of year?

Arturo Sanchez:

Normally we should just leave from here around five, six of the morning.

Lea Lane:

What time of year would you say? What month?

Arturo Sanchez:

They start approximately in October, November until February. We're almost done with that.

Lea Lane:

I'm going to give a tip, because I went to see them and it was a cloudy day and they didn't come out, and it's a very, very long trip for people you know, and something you want to see. So, if it's cloudy, think about it, see if you can get out of it and wait for a sunny day, because they come out in the sun and it is spectacular, wonderful things to do in and around Mexico City. For sure you can see it's a great city. The name of the podcast is Places I Remember. So, Arturo, will you please share a personal memory of Mexico City with us?

Arturo Sanchez:

Of course. Well, we were talking about it. We have as many different places, we have as many different options. But I don't want to miss one of my main recommendations or the main places where I love to visit. One of the most popular shows that we have right here is the Mexican Wrestling. I mean the Lucha Libre. That is really fabulous, that's correct. That's the Mexican Wrestling. The Lucha Libre I always say that is like the wrestling in different countries, but right here is most acrobatic, that is most show. Of course, that is a sport. Of course that is something really hard to do, but that is one of the main places where I really love to recommend. It's one of the shows.

Arturo Sanchez:

I have two daughters and I try to go with the Mexican wrestling as many times as we can because they love it right there. That is not from the hotel, for example. We are just 20 minutes ago and that is the place I always say to get out all that you needed. You had to scream, you had to make noise, you had to clap, everything that you see, because it's the place to enjoy with the family, with the friends, with all the people that you wanted. And actually, in some of the occasion, when we were talking with a guest in the morning giving their recommendation, we talked about it and they said, yes, of course we want to go. We are sitting with the tickets, with the entrance and we say, ok, we will let you know. How was it that way?

Arturo Sanchez:

In the night I was talking with my family and we was talking about what we can do. So we was in the wrestling tube and I don't know why, everything by the tickets for separate, and when we was in the arena we was just next to the guests, next to our guests, and was really fun because that was just like a biggest family enjoying that and they sharing with us. They explained with the different countries and we were sharing with the people right there and that was really beautiful because that is like a really familiar and this is the intention that we have right here in Mexico City. We told the people make all our best part of our family because we want to enjoy it just like we do it. Okay, that is our intention. So that show, it's really beautiful and that occasion was really awesome because I repeat, after that was sold, to get it outside, okay, let's go to eat some tacos to share the experience, and that is really really good. It's part of of the experience.

Lea Lane:

Sounds great. When you say it's acrobatic, how much more acrobatic is it than what I would think of wrestling? Do they dance around or do flips or what?

Arturo Sanchez:

It's like a circus, it's acrobatic. The people flying next to the roads and next to the ring right there, because right here in New Mexico, we have the good side and the bad side that we call the rudos and the técnicos. Choose your side, it doesn't matter, you have to choose your side. And right there, everybody's going to make noise and support the team.

Lea Lane:

Sounds great, it sounds local, it sounds like what you really want to feel when you get to a country, the real heart of it. So thank you for that. Memory it's a good tip as well, I enjoyed it. Memory it's a good tip as well, I enjoyed it. Thank you, in general, Arturo Sanchez, head concierge of Andes, Mexico City, Condesa Hotel, for sharing your knowledge about Mexico City. It's a great world destination and I hope to return soon. Adios nos vamos.

Arturo Sanchez:

Hasta la vista and we'll see you later.

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