Korea: Why We Love It

Patrice Henry, with The Korea Tourism Organization, shares her travel experiences and memories of Korea with Lea.

They talk a bit about the geography and history of the Korean peninsula, and then go on to the wonders of Seoul and of the areas outside the capital, including Busan and several of the islands, including national parks.

We go on to discuss the Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea, and then the delights of Korean food, lodging and customs.

The episode ends with special memories of Korea from both Lea and Patrice.
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 Patrice Henry is marketing manager, Korea Tourism Organization New York Office.
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Podcast host Lea Lane blogs at forbes.com, has traveled to over 100 countries, written nine books, including Places I Remember, and contributed to guidebooks. She's @lealane on Twitter; Travelea on Insta; on  Facebook, it's Places I Remember by Lea Lane. Website: placesirememberlealane.com.  Please follow, rate and review this weekly travel podcast!

Transcript

*Transcript edited for clarity.

Lea Lane  00:04

Hi I'm Lea Lane, an award winning travel writer and author of Places I Remember: Tales Truths Delights from 100 Countries. On this podcast we share conversations with travelers about fascinating destinations and memorable experiences around the world. South Korea is famous for kimchi, K Pop, K dramas, tech giant Samsung, automotive manufacturer Hyundai, Korean fried chicken, Korean barbecue and Gangnam Style. But there's so much more. North Korea is sometimes referred to as the Democratic People's Republic of Korea and South Korea as the Republic of Korea. And of course as the DMZ no man's land, part of a military border between North and South Korea countries technically still at war, but we'll just refer to South Korea where people can visit as Korea the Korean Peninsula is in East Asia and the southern half is generally green, hilly countryside dotted with cherry trees and centuries old Buddhist temples, plus coastal fishing villages, subtropical islands and high tech cities such as Seoul, the capital, that's our focus and that's the country we love. Our guest is Patrice Henry, marketing manager of the Korea Tourism organizations New York office. Welcome Patrice. I'm delighted that you're sharing your expertise and love of Korea with us.

Patrice Henry  01:31

Thank you for hosting me, Lea, and I look forward to sharing our love of Korea in this podcast also.

Lea Lane  01:37

Great. I know the Korean culture is greatly influenced by its neighbors China and Japan. Can you tell us a bit about the connection throughout Korea's history?

Patrice Henry  01:47

Well, with a fascinating history, I must mention that for many centuries South Korea was an independent kingdom. But after 1905 The country was ruled by the Japanese. After Japan Japan surrendered to the USA after the Second World War in 1945. Korea gained independence again, but the country soon was split between South Korea, which is largely supported by the US and not Korea. What I can say earlier is that Korea is written history, culture and preserved it well for over 5000 years.

Lea Lane  02:26

Well, let's take a tour of Korea starting with the capital Seoul, a city of about 10 million filled with both historical and modern pleasures and just a few hours away by high speed train for most of the best attractions of Korea. What places do you suggest we visit in Seoul?

Patrice Henry  02:43

Well, Lea, I have lots of places but just to say, you know you said 10 million people but I can add to this 10 million friendly people in Seoul. Say it's vibrant. It's exciting, and it's the city that never sleeps, the endless attractions to visit in Seoul. And if you're heading to solve for the first time, you're in for a one of a kind adventure, I pan picked just a few. And did you know there that there are five royal palaces in Seoul?

Lea Lane  03:20

Yes, I absolutely do. Because I visited them and they were glorious. So tell us about them.

Patrice Henry  03:27

So yes, and the five of them. And so experiencing one or all of the five is a must. Right? And it's a little secret. If you wear a handbook, which is a traditional costume, you can enter the policies for free.

Lea Lane  03:44

You know, I noticed that when I was there, there were the most beautiful costumes and I thought well, I didn't know if people just wore them as tradition. But now I realized it was because they saved money.

Patrice Henry  03:56

Yes, it's two fold. It's because they save money and it's a part of the tradition. Right. So besides the palaces, I then you have the time of your life at Lottie world. That's the world's largest indoor amusement park with an indoor theme park and an outdoor amusement park. Also surrounded by a hotel and the largest shopping complex. It is perfect for families and couples. And next for tastes of Korean traditional culture and architecture. Head over to the book chan Hanok Village and Lea, I'm not too sure if you got a chance to experience Bukchon Hanok Village.

Lea Lane  04:39

Yes, because I tell us about the hand axe. That's a very interesting part of Korea. Tell us about that.

Patrice Henry  04:45

Yes, this preserved area of several ancient neighborhoods gives you a feel of what it was like to live in Korea 600 years ago. It's right in central Seoul. You can immerse in the culture, you could experience the restaurants, the cafes, and you still have people living in those little hang ups. You know, the the traditional type Korean houses, the patched roofs but well maintained and preserved.

Lea Lane  05:14

Yes, I remember walking it was a hilly area and it was very steep. But beyond you can see the skyline of Seoul. So you had the combination of the old homes and the new and the most glorious, futuristic kind of skyline. It was quite something to be there as it's a must, as you said.

Patrice Henry  05:34

Yeah, that's correct. And I could also touch for Seoul. One other thing I have to recommend is the Seoul Tower, because this is rising almost 500 meters above the city, and it provides dramatic views. So you're in Seoul and a cable car would whisk you up to the side of the mountain to the base of the tower. And from here, you can go up in the tower and visit one of the four observation texts, one of which is has a rotating restaurant

Lea Lane  06:05

Is that Namsun park there with which you can hike, it was very surprising, because in the middle of this very modern metropolis is miles and miles of hiking trails. And this gorgeous again, a view of the area, it was quite a surprise to go there.

Patrice Henry  06:21

That's correct.

Lea Lane  06:22

Yes. Let me just ask you a little bit more about the palaces, which you mentioned in the beginning, there are five of them. The changing of the guard, tell me about that, which where is that in regard to.

Patrice Henry  06:34

That one is on at young Gyeongbokgung Palace, which is considered the largest palace of all. Certain times of the week when you can go and visit the palace and experienced the tree changing of the guards. And this is this is one of the experiences that you should not miss.

Lea Lane  06:52

We were at a hotel that overlooked it and so we could see it from above and it was quite something from that angle as well. But again, it's something many people don't realize that if you time it right, you can not only go to the palaces and go to the gardens and most beautiful, old buildings and there's a museum and all kinds of wonderful history. And then you can see a changing of the guard as well. It's quite a nice afternoon to spend.

Patrice Henry  07:18

Yes, and I always say that, Lea, where else can you leave your hotel and step right into a palace?

Lea Lane  07:25

Well, not bad. Not bad at all. Now let me ask you Seoul is the hub of Korea but tell us about some of the places we should visit further outside the capitol.

Patrice Henry  07:34

Well definitely Busan. Busan is the largest port city and is home of let's say majestic mountains white sand beaches, including Hiuen de and Kwan galley Beach. I'm not too sure. You know, many people know this but the beaches in Busan are amazing. Busan is also known for the hot springs and you can enjoy some of the best freshest seafood here in the world. Lobster Swim Fish, you name it, any seafood you can think of.

Lea Lane  08:06

So I know when I went there, I noticed a village that was on the cliff and it came down to the sea it kind of reminded me of Santa Rini and Greece that's very lovely to to walk is the name of that game got a chance to get to.

Patrice Henry  08:19

know the Gam Chun Khan Paltrow village and that was another one of the Jama in Busan. And that's a tiered residential community built up the side of the mountain and Leah you're right it's a work of ad with astonishing colors and views.

Lea Lane  08:37

Tell me about Gyeongju, the historic 

Patrice Henry  08:40

Okay, Gyeongju is a smaller city near Busan. But a definite highlight especially for those interested in Koreans, ancient history, the art and the architecture. This is where my favorite UNESCO site is the Bulguksa temple Kelas Okay, so this is where my favorite UNESCO site the Bulguksa temple is located. It's also where travelers come and visit some of the most ancient royal burial tombs

Lea Lane  09:09

Interesting. How far back do they go to, you know, way back? Yes, yes. Okay. So if you want to get out to a national park is a Yosemite of Korea, Korea's first national park. It has over 1500 animal species over 1000 kinds of plants. And I remember there's two Buddhist temples inside the park one is the temple of 100 pools because their ponds all around it. And then a cable car will take you up the mountain. It's about four hours from Seoul by bus or three hours by car. It's really a beautiful outside setting and I highly recommend it. Let's go to the DMZ. Everybody knows about that. So demilitarized zone, the border between North and South Korea is heavily guarded. And the area is about four kilometers wide. It the closest town is Panmunjom. I can talk about because I was there so I could just tell them.

Patrice Henry  09:58

We would talk about you into not wishing your boundaries with not Korea, which is separated by the demilitarized zone.

Lea Lane  10:05

So I went to the DMZ. It's not a long drive from downtown Seoul, and they have tours. And they take you around to a gift shop and a conference room which straddles the military demarcation line. And then there are tunnels underneath where you can visit. And you can step over the border into North Korea inside a room called the cross border room. So it was very interesting, but what was most interesting to me was, while we were there, and we were in the bus, and we were going to one of the sights, people came into the bus very quickly and said, You've got to leave you must leave right now. But it is something that I recommend, if you like history, because you do feel the history of the Korean War and feel how close the two countries the two areas are to each other. Patrice, what are some Korean foods to be sure to eat?

Patrice Henry  10:56

Oh, I could list a whole lot of Korean food because the food in South Korea is so incredible and unique. There's the kimchi, the bibim bap and bulgogi.

Lea Lane  11:08

Well tell us kimchi, tell us what they are.

Patrice Henry  11:11

Kimchi is fermented cabbage. And they've been recorded over 200 different types of kimchi. And that can be more Jeju Black pork, I experienced that. And they cook the black pork right in front of you. It's the best taste in black pork anywhere in the world. The other one that I should mention is the Buddhist temple cuisine real only real vegan option. And throughout Korea, there are these Buddhist temples where you can explore the teaching of the monks and you can spend a half a day you can spend the overnight or two days just to immerse yourself in the temple steak experience. And I always say this layer that, you know, when you experience Korean ribs in the US, and you go to Korea and you experience it, it's 10 times taste Yeah.

Lea Lane  12:10

Well, I can tell you that my guide, when I was there, he was gonna take me to this very nice restaurant. And I said, Well, I want real local food. He says, Well, I can take you to my local fried chicken place. It's not very fancy, but it's where I go. And he drove us to this little back street place. And it was superb. And I know people are beginning to discover it all over the world. At the time, I was really, really impressed with it. Also, he took us to his own local Korean barbecue where you barbecue yourself and a lot of a lot of the cities around the world now have have restaurants where you can barbecue your own food, Korean barbecue places. And that's a lot of fun. 

Patrice Henry  12:49

Oh yeah, that is so true. Delicious. Even so just to say, you know, the dining experiences, you know, in Korea can range from the local pubs, as you say, to the Michelin star who seen so there's so many options, and you're never disappointed when you experience the meals in Korea.

Lea Lane  13:09

Let me just ask the lodging is varied. You have many, many fine hotels. We stayed at the Four Seasons in Seoul, which is in the business district. So away from the crowded Gangnam area. But there are so many wonderful hotels. What I'm interested in is their lodging, where it's the local more traditional lodging where people can feel historic, like Rehan in Japan.

Patrice Henry  13:33

Well, I definitely there is a wide array of accommodation throughout Korea, there are the hanok which is the traditional Korean style bed and breakfast. And those are must experiences while in Korea. I know in in China, there's one major hanok stay, which I would definitely recommend. The what I've been told is when you sleep at the hang up, it's the best sleep you would wish you would have experienced throughout any vacation. The floors are heated throughout the winter months. So you actually feel like your queen or king throughout your experience at the hammock stay.

Lea Lane  14:19

Well that's a good thing. I know I went to a place in Seoul called Korea House where they had traditional dinners you know, you sat on the floor and it was traditional food and there was dance shows. I don't know if there was a place to stay there but that that was a wonderful experience in the evening. I highly recommend that and I would love to go back and stay and feel like a king or queen.

Patrice Henry  14:44

We would love to take you back. When you're ready. I will definitely take you back to Korea.

Lea Lane  14:51

Well you know I looked up some of the customs, I just want to ask you if any of these sound familiar that you accept things using your two hands is that a customer rather than one hand, that is correct. How about I know you take your shoes off before entering someone's house? That's very understandable.

Patrice Henry  15:07

That's definitely has some that has not changed.

Lea Lane  15:10

How about using your palm when calling a taxi? Is that the way to do it?

Patrice Henry  15:16

It's changing a lot now. Especially, there's still some customs. You know, you could you know, most people we go to Korean. Yeah, you raise your hands. But usually if you're at Hotel, your range, a taxi with the concierge service,

Lea Lane  15:31

And then I read something you don't write someone's name in red ink. Is that still true?

Patrice Henry  15:35

I've heard that even here at the office, we always use a black ink pen.

Lea Lane  15:40

Okay, just asking. It sounds interesting. I love customs. That's one of the ways to feel like you're traveling and to understand cultures. So it's fun to talk about some of the customs always. Well, the name of the podcast is places I remember. And I'll start with a memory of Korea. I remember going while I was planning to go to Jung Chang, where the 23rd Winter Olympic Games were held in 2018. And it was a previous fall. And I was so excited that we're going to take me up there, I was going to see the white tiger mascot and look at the venue. But on the way up and this was in the fall, it started to snow. And I really, really wanted to get there. But on the other hand, it started to become a blizzard. So I was really torn and the driver really wanted to get me there. And I got scared. So he turned back and it turned out to be one of the worst blizzards ever in the fall. So I never got to see the white tiger. But I think you know, it's one of the lessons of travel that you can't always plan. What's going to happen and sometimes you just have to go with your gut. So I I have a sad feeling about that. But it's a memory that maybe I'll come back sometime and visit the venue. Yes, here.

Patrice Henry  16:53

We have to definitely take you back to Korea.

Lea Lane  16:56

Now can you share Patrice one of your special memories of Korea?

Patrice Henry  16:59

I have many special memories, Lea, but one such memory was in Jeju Island. And I'm not sure if you got to experience Jeju Island.

Lea Lane  17:10

No, I didn't. I wish I did. 

Patrice Henry  17:12

I know it's oh my gosh. So Jeju Island is the largest island in the nation. And it's a very popular tourist destination among Koreans and foreigners. It's paradise and the perfect place for nature lovers, pristine beaches, breathtaking waterfalls. And a lot of people would not know this, but there are several waterfalls in Jeju Island. It's great for outdoor enthusiasts, and there's so much to do and see.

Lea Lane  17:42

Is that where they have lava tubes? I've heard about those. Yes. See?

Patrice Henry  17:46

That's correct.

Lea Lane  17:48

Tell us about that.

Patrice Henry  17:49

Oh my gosh. So the Manjanggul Cave in Korea is one of the attractions in Jeju Island. That is it's actually a world UNESCO heritage site. So you can go and experience this stalagmites and stalactites. And then this I could go on and on in terms of the hiking experiences throughout Jeju Island, but one of my memories special memories of of Jeju Island is the handle, which is the sea woman and they catch seafood for living with only a knife while holding their breath. Some pretty much 80 years plus and they dry they free die, but don't down to 30 feet four minutes, depending on the experience. And you can still see some of these. We call them see mermaids at work and learn about the history and culture in the hangar museum on Jeju Island. For me, this was one of the most memorable experiences in Korea.

Lea Lane  19:01

It sounds wonderful. I will have to definitely go back to that. That that's reminds me of the pearl divers. Japan, you know there are other women who do this. It's amazing. How long do you think they can go under the water?

Patrice Henry  19:14

I am not too sure how long but I know when I was there, I pretty much experience one over 10 minutes.

Lea Lane  19:21

Well that sounds fantastic. Thank you so much. Patrice Henry, marketing manager of the Korea Tourism organization's New York office for enlightening us about your home country. We do love Korea.

Patrice Henry  19:34

Thank you, Lea.

Lea Lane  19:41

Thanks for sharing travel memories with us. My book Places I Remember is available on Amazon and in bookstores, in print, on Kindle, and I read the audio version. Please subscribe to this podcast and consider giving us a review. Until next time, join us wherever in the world we're going.